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The London 2005 Travelogue |
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Day 4
(Part 1)
We were good kids today. We woke up much earlier
than we did yesterday, although we honestly didn't have much of a
choice... today was the day we were going to visit Hampton Court Palace.
Hampton Court Palace is located approximately 12
miles from Charing Cross in central London. According to Wikipedia, "the
Knights Hospitaller had operated a farm on the site since 1236. In 1505,
the Lord Chamberlain, Sir Giles Daubeney, leased the property and used
it to entertain Henry VII". The present palace didn't begin to take
shape until 1514, when Thomas Wolsey, then Archbishop of York and Chief
Minister to Henry VIII, took over the lease and began to create a palace
in the Renaissance Italian style. But then, in 1525, Wolsey made the
fatal mistake of pissing off Great Harry, who not only took his life,
but took his house too. Henry expanded the palace until his death.
Subsequent monarchs continued to use and expand the palace, but the
palace's present form didn't appear until the reign of William and
Mary when "parts of Henry's additions were demolished, a new wing was
added (partly under the supervision of Sir Christopher Wren), and the
state apartments came into regular use". Even more refurbishment took
place during the reign of George II, however beginning with George III,
the palace saw less and less use by Britain's monarchs, who now
preferred staying in London. As far as royal palaces go, Hampton Court
is far older than Buckingham Place; in fact, Buckingham Palace
didn't become anything resembling a "palace" until 1826 and didn't
become the "official" home of the British monarch until the accession of
Queen Victoria in 1837.
But I'm getting way, way ahead of myself here. To
get to Hampton Court from central London one must take a Bakerloo,
Jubilee or Northern line Tube train to Waterloo station and then take a
South West Trains train to Hampton Court Palace. Since the Hilton is
close to the Bakerloo line, that's the one Lisa and I took. We arrived
at Waterloo station at the perfect time, having to wait only 8 minutes
or so for the next train to Hampton Court. Since we hadn't had anything
to eat yet, Lisa checked out a sandwich shop, where she got a hummus
wrap. I initially didn't bother with food, but seeing all those
sandwiches made me kind of hungry. I went in and spied a "chicken tikka
sandwich"... Curry for breakfast? Why the hell not? I grabbed the
sandwich and a drink and hit the train!
I've
only been outside of central London once, and that was to visit Bath. On
that trip, I was treated to an hour and a half of picturesque English
countryside... not so on this trip. It wasn't ugly and industrial
(like the train ride from Gatwick), but it wasn't especially pretty
either. Of course, the cold and the rain didn't help that much, either.
But - to be honest - I had other things to worry about. You see, the
Visitor Travelcard is supposed to be valid for travel on all Tube
trains, most London busses and all non-Tube railways within metropolitan
London. I was fairly certain that the card was valid for this trip, but
all of the "£20 penalty fare for not having a ticket" signs made me
nervous. I wasn't exactly rolling in cash, and having to pay £40 (almost
$80) penalties (in addition to paying for the fare) made a bit worried. Fortunately,
no member of staff came through checking tickets, so the issue was never
raised. A still-sleepy Lisa ate her hummus wrap (pictured left)
whilst I stared off at the suburban scene passing by us.
We arrived at Hampton Court at 11:30 or so in the
morning, around 35 minutes after leaving Waterloo station. |
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Hampton Court Palace,
with the Thames in the foreground |
The
Thames, with Hampton Court
to the side |
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| We waited patiently in
line for tickets (£12 each, by the way) and at last we were able to walk
towards the actual palace itself: |
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The approach to
Hampton Court Palace |
The approach to
Hampton Court Palace
Don't you love the "Hurry
up, boy!" look on Lisa's face? |
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Through one
courtyard, into the next |
Magnificent
architectural details! |
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Not a very lucky
gateway, if you ask me! |
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Note the swift change
in architectural styles; this is a Georgian area of the Palace |
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Unfortunately, photography is not allowed inside most parts of the
palace, so you'll have to settle for mostly exterior shots. If you'd
like a more in-depth look inside the palace, click
here.
And fear not - even though they don't allow photography inside the
palace, that doesn't mean that the staff is uptight. Many staff wander
around the palace in period clothing, like the medieval monk pictured to
the left, who was being merry for the holidays and handing out candy to
the children. We were even treated to a free mini-concert of chamber
music by folks dressed up in 18th century garb once we got to William
III's state apartments!
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Lisa dressed up in a
bababooshka!
It was COLD and rainy that day! |
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The path towards the
"Tudor Kitchens", one of the few areas where photography is permitted. |
For some reason, I
was completely taken by the plant life growing out of the shingles... |
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Yum! Venison *and*
wild boar for dinner! These are just plastic models, of course... |
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I guess we know where
they met their end, no? |
Some, um, bowls? |
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A huge copper kettle,
built in to the countertop |
More yummy dead
animals! |
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Yet another shot of
some yummy dead animals! |
The Tudor Kitchen in
all its glory... |
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The big white lump in
his hand is sugar, which used to come in hard cones |
A worktable |
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The guy in the
costume tells us about working with sugar |
Yet another workspace |
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This gentleman tells
us about making chicken pies |
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All about oranges! |
Seeing how cold it
was in the room, even the vegetarians enjoyed the spit where meats were
roasted! |
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A kid takes his turn
working the spit.
Yes, people used to sit there for hours turning the
spit manually. Talk about a crappy job! |
The guy in red (on
the left) is explaining wine and place settings to a visitor. |
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Finished chicken
pies! Yum! |
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Staff with mad skillz - like bakers - were given their own stalls to use
in the kitchen.
Although it doesn't look
like it, the white object in the background that looks like a fort is
actually a cake, complete with a St. George's Cross on top! |
The wine cellar...
let's PARTY! |
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One of the most amazing things
we saw at Hampton Court that day was the Chapel Royal. It's just a
chapel, and is not much bigger than the
Church of Our Saviour back home. But the chapel still has its
original, magnificent Tudor ceiling, which was simply
breathtaking to see:

Above photo taken by
Gayle of DesignWest, 18
April or 6 May 1999.
Hampton Court is also
known for its lush gardens and its maze. However, it was just too cold
and rainy to check them out: |
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Given that we had seen just
about everything that we could see inside the palace (and that we
weren't stupid enough to try an navigate the maze in the rain), it seemed
as if it was time to go. I did, however, have time to snap a couple of
pictures of people skating in the ice rink set up outside the palace
just for the holidays. Yes, these people are ice skating in the rain: |
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we went. But I did snap a few pics on the way: |
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Detail of the cheery
columns at the otherwise dreary Hampton Court train station.
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One of the better
views from the train on the way back to London |
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Lisa naps on the way
back to Waterloo station... |
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Before I finish with the Hampton
Court stuff, I simply must quote you a rather funny conversation
Lisa and I had at one point during the day. We had just finished walking
through Queen Mary's state apartments, dozens of rooms so opulent that
it simply beggars belief. The King of England had some money,
folks. I'm not talking gangsta rapper money or even Hollywood movie star
money... I'm talking Bill Gates money here. Queen Mary's friggin
bathroom probably cost more money (and required more craftsmen)
than my old house in Duluth. It's almost obscene!
So anyway, Lisa and I had
this exact conversation shortly after we walked out of her apartments:
Lisa: "So, you've never been to
the Biltmore House, right?"
Me: "Nope."
Lisa: "Pffffffffttt! Don't even bother now..."
It's that bling, folks! |
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End of Part 1 of Day
4. Click here to go to
part 2 of Day
4! |
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Last Updated:
Friday, 24 March 2006 03:16
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