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The London 2005 Travelogue |
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Day 5
(New Year's Eve, Part 2)
So - the cruise was fun, and as you can see, it
provided us with lots of photo opportunities. I can imagine that
it would be wonderful in the summer, so if you ever find yourself
in London in the summertime, I seriously suggest that you consider taking a cruise.
But we had other things to do this day, and do get to them, we'd have to
take the Tube yet again. Which brings me to my next little rant... |
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Deciphering The Tube Map
Take a look at a Tube map. Seriously. Do it now;
I'll wait. The map is available all over the Internet, but just to make
it easy for you I've tracked down the "official" map from Transport for
London, which you can view by clicking
here.
Are you there yet? OK, good.
You'll notice that there are several lines, each of which has it's own
color. The red line in the center of the map is called the "Central
Line". Take a look at it now, especially the parts of the line in the
center of the map. Notice that there are two types of stations on the
Central Line: stations marked with a small line (like the Lancaster Gate
station) and stations marked with some kind of circle (like the Bond
Street or Oxford Circus stations). The reason for the two different
markings is that the "small line" stations connect to no other rail
service, while the "circle stations" do - be it another Tube line or a
National Rail line. So if you're on the Central Line and want to get on
the Piccadilly Line (the dark blue line), you'd have to go to Holborn
station and change there. You see how that works?
A station can sometimes connect
to multiple lines, too. Let your eye follow the Piccadilly Line from
Holborn to King's Cross\St. Pancras. Although the Piccadilly Line
doesn't stop at King's Cross, if you look closely you'll see that the
Victoria (light blue), Northern (black), Hammersmith and City (pink),
District (yellow) and Bakerloo (brown) lines do stop at King's
Cross.
But what the Tube map doesn't
tell you is that it sometimes lies. Look for the Tower Hill
station, which is located on the District and Circle (yellow and green) lines and is
located near the river Thames (look for the little boat next to it
indicating a pier). If you look at the first stop to the west of Tower
Hill (Monument), it looks at first glance as if you can catch a Northern
Line train there. Well, you can't. What you get instead is an
Underground tunnel that leads you from the Monument station to the Bank
station, which is a walk of something like 75 miles. Or at least it
feels like 75 miles. I won't make the mistake of doing that again -
it surely must be shorter (or at least more scenic) to walk the
streets from Tower Hill to Bank station. And at least you won't see
signs like these on the street: |
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Do not urinate
in this area! Big Brother watching you! |
This sign is hard to
read now that it's been reduced, but it basically says "Dear Santa - I
have been a good boy this year. All I want this Christmas is for Daddy
to stop hitting me and for Mummy to stop crying all the time...", which
of course made the guy homeless. |
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Meanwhile, back at the ranch...
After
walking the 75 miles from Monument to Bank station, we settled in for a
trip under the Thames to London Bridge station. We were headed to the
South Bank to see something Lisa had been drooling over for months:
The Clink Prison
Museum! Astute readers might notice that the London Bridge
station is the same station Lisa and I used to get to Borough Market,
and indeed we had to walk right past it to get to the Clink, so I was
able to snap a shot of it during the day (left).
Let me ask you something - what is a museum?
Is it a place where artifacts are kept for public viewing? Or is it just
a place for learning? What if a "museum" didn't have any
artifacts at all and wasn't located in a historic building? Would you
still consider it a museum?
That's the question I had as we approached the
Clink Museum. The museum has few (if any) genuine artifacts. The
building it represents was burnt down a few centuries ago. In fact, this
"museum" basically just has a few wax figures of people being tortured
and lot of cards to read on the wall. But was it fun? It sure
was! |
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The Entrance to The
Clink Prison Museum |
The Clink was voted
"Most Notorious Medieval Prison" by local residents |
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A prisoner being
clapped in irons |
An interesting take
on "The Benefit of the Clergy" |
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This device was used
to shut up women that talked too much. No comment. |
Many Catholic priests
were imprisoned in The Clink. |
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An interrogation
chair |
Public punishments |
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What a medieval
brothel (supposedly) looked like... |
A copy of a law from
1381 regulating "stewehouses" (brothels) |
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The stocks |
Sexy lady! |
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Hand crushing - not a
lot of fun |
Homosexuals being
hanged - also not fun |
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Two more gay men,
although it's hard to tell from their clothes that they ARE men! |
The device on the
right was made for your ankle.
It was made of lead and is
extremely heavy. Not only did it do a good job of keeping you in place,
it also had barbs inside that would pierce your ankle. |
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On the left... The
boot!
A foot was placed inside,
then wood was crammed in the remaining space. Water or oil was then
added, which caused the wood to swell, thus crushing your foot. The boot
was then placed over a fire, so that the water or oil would boil,
causing your crushed foot to fall off! |
A card explaining
what I just said in the previous cell. |
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what did we learn from The Clink Museum? Well, for starters we learned
that a medieval prison was absolutely no place to be. Life was
little more than a waking nightmare, especially for the "loose women"
that were imprisoned there. We also learned - although it was never
said, only implied - that when America's Founding Fathers wrote about
"cruel and unusual punishment" in the Constitution, they had places like
The Clink in mind, not some prison where prisoners have to wear pink or
don't have access to cable TV. At one point, The Clink was turned into a
debtor's prison; because back then each prisoner was supposed to support
his or herself by buying their own food, toiletries and clothing, the
people that couldn't afford it (like debtors) lived a life we can
scarcely imagine. I mentioned that The
Clink was not located in any type of historic building. This is, in
fact, true. The museum is located in a warehouse apparently built
sometime in the 1920s. But just down the street, one can look up and see
vestiges of the old
Winchester
Palace, of which the Clink prison was indeed part: |
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What remains of
Winchester Palace after a fire in 1814.
Note the rose window at the
top of the wall. |
The remnants of the
palace have been incorporated into a modern building. |
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| Just down the street
from The Clink Museum, you'll find the modern reproduction of the
Golden Hind that I took a picture of on our cruise: |
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the Golden Hind is
Southwark Cathedral: |
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I found the cathedral to be
pretty fascinating. Built between 1220 and 1420, it has a chapel named
after one of it's most famous parishioners: John Harvard, who would go
on to create a rather famous university in Cambridge, Massachusetts in
1636. The south window is dedicated to William Shakespeare, whose
original Globe Theatre was nearby. Said window has several quotes and
images from the Bard's plays in it, and is a whimsy to see. Also of
interest is the tomb of John Gower, a friend of Chaucer's who died in 1408
and is considered by many to be the "first English poet". Also quote
moving is the wooden effigy of a knight (dated to around 1280) as well
as the tomb of Lancelot Andrewes, who was not only a well-known scholar
and preacher, but was also the last occupant of Winchester Palace, the
remains of which can be seen a few photos above. All in all, Southwark
Cathedral was both moving and amusing, plus I liked that it's rather
small for a cathedral church. Going through the entire cathedral took
only around a half-hour, yet I felt as if I saw just about everything
there was to see - unlike Westminster Abbey, which I could visit every
day for a week and still see something new.
By now the missus and I were
running out of gas. We weren't exhausted, but we knew that a nap
was called for if we were gonna hang with the party crowd this New
Year's Eve. So we headed back towards the Hilton, stopping once again at
the Marks and Spencer.
It was at M&S when I picked up a
newspaper that the fullness of of something I had already known
really hit me: the copy of The Sun newspaper in my hand was
just about the only item Marks and Spencer sells that isn't
branded as a Marks and Spencer product. You have to understand - Marks
and Spencer started out as a department store. And just like Sears used
to do in America, every stitch of clothing M&S sells has their name on
the label. Want "Fruit of The Loom" brand briefs? Sorry, they only carry
M&S brand briefs. Want an Arrow shirt or Dockers slacks? Sorry, they
only carry M&S brand shirts and slacks.
Which is all well and good, but
when the M&S brand gets carried over to food products - a fairly recent
invention, by the way - things just get a little... creepy. In
addition to the newspaper I also picked up a Marks and Spencer sandwich
and Marks and Spencer crisps as well as some Marks and Spencer cheese
for a snack. I bought some Marks and Spencer beer for the evening's
festivities, while Lisa opted for Marks and Spencer vodka. I even bought
my friend Kim back home a can of Marks and Spencer Gin and Tonic (which
came in a can like Red Bull) as the colors and packaging reminded me of
her. I was even tempted by all the Marks and Spencer brand candies there
at the checkout station, but was able to resist the Marks and Spencer
Beef Bolognese sauce and the Marks and Spencer Tikka Masala, as I have
plenty of the both at home. I dunno... is it just me? I mean, I know
that American grocery stores often have their own "house brand" of most
popular items.. but don't you think it's be weird if Bi-Lo or
Harris Teeter or Kroger started carrying only house brands? What
if Nordstrom carried food? Would you buy Nordstrom brand food? Don't get
me wrong - all of the M&S food I've ever had was pretty good... there's
just something unsettling and... cultish about having your
store's name on everything. |
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End of Part 2 of Day
5. Click here
to go to Part 3 of Day 5! |
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Last Updated:
Friday, 24 March 2006 03:16
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